Friday, September 24, 2010

What makes good food good?


Cooking is a combination of flavor characteristics, technique, and the product we use.  When we first begin to create an idea for a dish we must first look at the flavor characteristics that we want to use. This is done by selecting the best product out there in order to make the best food possible. Only then can we establish a technique to present the item we are cooking to it's fullest potential. 
What we do not want to do is try an recreate something that was not there to begin with. Nothing can taste more like an orange, except an orange. The flavor profile of a food product should be kept constant. Sauces, garnish, and accompaniments should compliment each other but hold true to the original flavor. 
As a chef, we come into this equation when we choose the flavors. People say what about the technique? But the technique is constant. There is nothing that hasn't been done before.  Molecular gastronomy is just another way to look at cooking. Big business has been using the same hydrocoloids in our food products "forever". Technique is one constant that a cook can count on. Once you learn it... It is put to use over and over. 
Now the problem lies here. If we are using flawed techniques, products, and flavors we will end up with flawed results. 
If I could turn back time and estage with the Medici's and learn from the masters of old what would I learn? Maybe the same techniques that have been taught to me already?  Of course, i probably wouldn't be able to use my buerre mixer or hobart.  
The thing that makes cooking revolutionary is bringing that technique to a level of near perfection. Making that piece of food taste as pure as it can be. As cooks we strive to make good food. As chefs we strive to make good food over and over and over. 

J-


For those of you waiting for a recipe... here you go.

Lobster sliders

Lobster Rolls with Tarragon Aioli, Fennel Slaw on a Brioche Bun

Fumet for poaching

1 - 2lbs lobster
1 oz red onion
1 oz carrots
1 oz celery
1 tsp fresh tarragon
1 tbsp Mayo
1/4 tsp roasted garlic

1 bulb Fennel
1 lime (juiced and zested)
.5 oz carrot
1/4 tsp olive oil

Salt and pepper to taste

4 brioche buns


Make a simple fumet(2 qts water, 1/2 a carrot, 1 stalk celery, 1/2 an onion, couple pepper corns and a cup of cheap white wine). Bring to a boil. Then simmer for 10 minutes.  
Add your lobster, poach for 12 minutes and then cool it down.
Clean your lobster and dice into bit sized pieces. Set aside.

Chiffonade the leaves of the tarragon and mince the roasted garlic.  Combine herb and garlic mix with the mayo, diced carrots, diced celery, and diced red onions. Fold in lobster meat and season to taste. 

Slice fennel into paper thin strips and marinate them with lime juice, lime zest, julliened carrot, olive oil, salt, and pepper.

To assemble, lightly toast the broiche buns and generously portion the lobster mix on each bun.  Top the lobster mix with a portion of fennel slaw and finish off with the top of the bun.  Grab a cold Bottle of beer and enjoy!!!

P.S.
If you are having a cocktail party these make great sliders!

Trust me it is easier than it reads.  

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